一年一度的南海伏季休漁期於八月中結束，蝦蟹魚鱉經過三個多月的休養生息都長得豐膄肥美，無論是刺身生吃還是傳統蒸煮皆宜，大啖海中 “鱻” 是時候！
The summer fishing moratorium in South China Sea is coming to an end in mid-August. After three months of recovery, fish, prawns, and crabs have grown to maturity. It is time to enjoy some delicacies from the sea!
Soul of Banquet
China enjoys a bountiful supply of seafood from its extended coastline. A variety of cooking methods has been developed for different types of seafood, however, few areas can rival the seafood culture in Chaozhou, where seafood is considered the soul of a banquet. Tian Chao on Rua de Roma is arguably the best Chaozhou restaurant in Macau. At its helm is Chef Mak Kip Fu, a well-regarded figure in the industry, Chef Mak first worked in Fook Lam Moon as an apprentice and has since cooked for a number of five-star hotels. He is best known for his experience in Michelin three-star restaurant Lung King Heen in Hong Kong and two-star Zi Yat Heen in Macau.
麥師傅說，潮州菜中烹煮最經典的當然是“ 魚飯”，起源是潮州的漁民出海打魚，為了方便在船上充飢，將海水煮滾後將魚獲直接丟入浸熟，放涼後才吃，這種 “ 地道”的吃法將海產的鮮味發揮得淋漓盡致，更變成經典的潮式烹飪方法，時至今日幾乎任何一間潮汕餐廳都有魚飯供應，當中最受歡迎的是“大眼雞”及“烏頭魚”。麥師傅說天潮所揀選的都是最優質的漁獲， 尤其休漁期過後，魚特別肥美：“ 最好的深水大眼雞是用釣的，俗稱“ 釣口魚”，顏色較淡，重者可達一斤以上，魚味濃而肉厚實，而烏頭則有一層黃色的魚油厚厚的包裹着魚肉，蘸點普寧豆醬，吃下去油香撲鼻，絕對是神仙食物！”
For Chef Mak, the most classic dish in Chaozhou is cold fish. Created by busy fishermen who had little time or resources, the dish involved soaking the fish in boiling seawater and then leaving it to cool down before serving. This local way of cooking accentuates the fresh taste of seafood and has since evolved to become a typical regional dish. Cold fish is served in almost every Chaozhou restaurant nowadays. Bigeye and grey mullet are among the most popular types of fish to use. Chef Mak emphasises that Tian Chao only uses the best ingredients, adding that the ones first caught after the moratorium are particularly succulent. “The best deep-water bigeye fish are line-caught and light in colour. The biggest ones can measure over a catty. It is rich in taste and firm in texture. For grey mullet, a yellow layer of fat wraps over the meat. When enjoyed with a soy dip, it releases a rich fragrance of oil. It is like food in the paradise!”
“ 魚飯”這種以鹽水浸熟再放涼的烹調法式也可以用於其他海鮮，如墨魚、龍蝦等，潮州名菜凍蟹其實也算是“ 蟹飯”，麥師傅使用一斤或以上重的肥美紅蟹，肉味鮮甜清爽，蟹黃脂凝透香。說到蟹，不得不提麥師傅拿手名菜之一的煎釀鮮蟹鉗；要先把蟹鉗拆殼先煎再以湯煨之，入口盡是鮮蟹肉。餐廳還有不少潮汕小吃，如天潮醃司奄及辣酒煮花螺，兩者都有麥師傅的秘製醬汁提鮮；煎蠔餅與蠔仔方魚粥的蠔仔亦新鮮肥美。老饕也要試陳年滷水膽炮製的鵝片，最後再叫天潮招牌菜——龍蝦海鮮泡飯，一頓飯才算完滿！
Secret Sauce to Enhance Taste
The method of first soaking in salt water and then leaving to cool can be applied to other seafood as well. Some common examples are cuttlefish and lobsters. Crabs are a particularly popular choice. At Tian Chao, Chef Mak uses only red crabs of over a catty for their freshness, sweetness and aromatic roes. Apart from cold crab, another signature dish of Chef Mak is Pan Fried Stuffed Crab Claw. Crab meat is first removed from the shell, and then pan fried. Afterwards, it is stewed in a stock. The restaurant also serves a range of Chaozhou snacks, such as Marinated Raw Cockle and Boiled Snail with Spicy Wine. Both use a secret sauce created by Chef Mak to enhance flavours. For oyster lovers, Omelet with Baby Oyster and Congee with Baby Oyster, Flounder and Minced Pork are not to miss. Marinated Goose Meat made with an aged stock is another chef’s recommendation. Before calling it a meal, remember to order Tian Chao’s signature dish Rice Broth with Lobster and Seafood for a perfect ending!
天潮 Tian Chao
G/F, Flat AK, Tong Nam Ah Garden, 110
Rua de Roma, Macau
電話 Tel：+853 2875 1268
日本有所謂“ 食慾之秋”，意即指每年8月氣溫開始逐漸下降，整個人胃口也會隨着好起來！位於金龍酒店的金樹日本料理，餐廳走高級餐飲路線，由有三十年日本料理經驗的中村博文主理，他奉行“ 不時不食”的鐵律，只選購最時令最高級的食材。中村師傅說秋天當然首推秋刀魚； 9-11月的秋季為其產卵季節，魚身特別肥美 。 另外日本每年10月起，亦開始解禁捕撈三大名蟹——肉質甜美的松葉蟹、肉多飽滿的鱈場蟹及蟹膏豐富的毛蟹，老饕們亦可盡情大快朵頤。而從8月開始一直到翌年4月，亦是品嚐蠔類的絕佳季節，全因這段時間蠔肉質地最為飽滿！另外中村師傅說他們不時還會提供一些特別的刺身，如黑鮪魚（吞拿魚）的“ 不見天”魚腩位，訂坐時緊記同時預訂。
Autumn of Appetite
The term “autumn of appetite” is used in Japan to describe the increase of appetite from August onwards as temperature drops. Kinju Japanese Restaurant at Golden Dragon Hotel serves as a fine-dining venue and is helmed by Nakamura Hirofumi. With 30 years of experience in Japanese cuisine, Nakamura follows the principle of using only seasonal ingredients. The first dish launched this autumn is Mackerel Pike as the fish reaches its juiciest state in the egg-laying season from the September to November. From October, the moratorium in Japan on three premium crab species – snow crabs, red king crabs and horsehair crabs – will be lifted. Crab fanatics may mark the date. From August to April next year, it is also the oyster season as the shellfish becomes fattier. The restaurant will also serve special premium sashimi from time to time, such as tuna belly. It can be reserved as the table is booked.
金樹日本料理 Kinju Japanese Restaurant
3/F, Golden Dragon Hotel, Rua de
Malaca, Porto Exterior, Macau
電話 Tel：+853 2899 3866